How to Properly Introduce New SKINCARE INGREDIENTS

It can be tempting to totally renovate our skincare routine when our skin is not behaving. And for some of us skincare junkies, the arrival of a new active ingredient or miracle treatment can have us rushing to the online checkout and slathering our mugs with the latest buzzworthy potion. But we need to slow our roll. 

Our skin needs time to acclimate to new ingredients, especially intense, effective actives. Otherwise, we risk reactions like dermatitis, peeling, dryness, redness, and breakouts. Here’s how we should go about doing that.

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Read product reviews.

Ok, this may sound either boring or like duh to some, but there is some value to be found in reviews. Look for specifics, like if it made a rash appear, if it did nothing at all, if someone suffered a reaction. Some reviewers will share personal information about their skin so that we can compare. And to the people who do this, thank you so much. Sincerely.

Patch test.

If the product we’re trying out has intense, clinical actives in it, we want to make sure our face isn’t going to explode. Try it on an extra-porous area like the T-zone (opt for chin, near the nose, or on the forehead). This should give an idea, in at least 48 hours, whether the product is a major no-no for us. We can likely skip this step with most super-simple, natural, clean products unless we’re sensitive. In that case, always patch test.

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One thing at a time.

There comes a time when we get fed up and want to try everything, right now. We want to try the new tincture, herbal supplement, face mask, cleanser, and serum all at once. Sometimes, the results are amazing! But other times, we suffer some consequences. In order to understand which products are helping and which are causing problems, we need to pare down how many new products we are using. Just stick to one at a time, and give it at least two weeks of consistent use (unless there is an immediate reaction; then stop immediately).

Don’t do it before a big event.

Just in case our skin will not be pleased with the latest active ingredients we have our sights on, it’s best we don’t get too excited before a date night or big event. The last thing we want is a rash or the beginnings of an inflammatory purge breakout just when we’d hoped to look our very best.

Always ice.

On the occasions that our skin simply is not loving our latest product, of course, stop using it right away, and rinse with cool water. We want to cleanse thoroughly and ice the area to keep inflammation down. When in doubt, always ice. Stay away from steams and hot water, which can make the reaction worse.

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SOS! My Makeup Is Pilling — How Can I Fix It?

Do you ever find that your foundation balls up on your skin after you apply your favorite sunscreen or face cream? Similar to when your knitwear has seen better days and small balls of fabric sit on the material, this is called pilling — and it’s the fastest way to ruin your skin-care and makeup in one fell swoop.

Pilling is one of the most frustrating things that can happen when applying your skincare and makeup, due to the fact it takes extra time to blend, correct, and can waste more of your expensive beauty products.

Makeup pilling is no fun, especially after you just applied a full face of makeup and your foundation starts sliding off in tiny pieces. Pilling occurs when two makeup or skin-care ingredients don’t mesh well together on your skin, and although there are ways to avoid this (more on that below), we wanted to know if there’s any way to salvage your full beat in this scenario. Ahead, we spoke with NYC-based makeup artist Mary Irwin to find out how.

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What Causes Pilling

When your skincare or makeup pills, it looks like flakes or globs of product on your skin.

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Pilling happens when products haven’t absorbed into the skin, whether due to:

🤍 the type of ingredient

🤍 the amount applied

🤍 the other products you’re using

🤍 the condition of your skin

🤍 The tools you are using to apply your skincare and makeup

With so many of us experimenting with multi-step skincare routines, the pilling struggle is all too real!

Here are some best tips if you’re dealing with this issue.

Can You Fix Makeup Pilling?

Irwin gets straight to the point: “Unfortunately, aside from taking a damp makeup sponge and trying to blend it in, there’s not much you can do besides take it off.” If your foundation begins to pill, wet a sponge (the L’Oréal Paris Infallible Blend Artist Foundation Blender is our fave) and tap it over the areas where it pilled off. Once you’ve blended it out, set it with a loose powder like the Maybelline New York Lasting Fix Banana Setting Powder and don’t touch it. “Don’t add anything cream or liquid over it after the fact.”

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WE know and understand that you don’t want to remove the makeup that you spent hours perfecting so for that to not happen, the first thing you want to make sure you’re doing is exfoliate on a regular basis.

To be clear, the little balls that form are composed of product, not dead skin. But it’s still important to maintain a good exfoliation routine, because it will help your products to absorb more effectively, rather than remaining on top of a surface layer of dead skin. 

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How to Avoid Pilling

Irwin recommends paying attention to the ingredients you’re placing on your skin to avoid pilling all together. “Use products that have a similar formula — silicone with silicone, water with water, etc.” When applying cream makeup products (which have the most tendency to pill), she recommends starting with thin layers and building them up slowly. “Also avoid layering cream over powder, because this can result in pilling too.”

The more you touch your skin, the more you disturb the products and encourage them to pill. It goes without saying that rubbing your face is a a big no-no, as this will only cause surface residue to bunch and roll up. Use light, patting motions to apply your products, and resist the urge to touch your face any more than absolutely necessary.

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Just give yourself plenty of time in between layers and after the final layer. That will ensure you’ve absorbed most of the beneficial ingredients.

Here are 3 more videos that can be helpful when it comes to pilling:

Have you experienced product pilling?
What has helped you to prevent it?

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Tried Glossier’s Best Sellers. Here’s What I Think.

Did they defy my expectations? Let’s find out.

After months of eyeing Glossier’s line-up of products, I decided to do a haul in hopes that their best sellers were as good as they appeared to be. Known for their minimalist approach to beauty, makeup, and skincare, the Emily Weiss-founded cosmetics company has long since been a favorite of minimalists and maximalists alike. For beauty lovers who gravitate towards “no-makeup” makeup looks, Glossier holds the keys to the kingdom, while makeup afficianados who are more about that beat-face life have their favorite tried and true beauty finds from the brand (Boy Brow, we’re looking at you).

As far as my own personal adventure into Glossier Land, I decided to add their cleanser, serums, and moisturizers as well as a few of their top-selling makeup offerings. Keep reading for a quick rundown of my buys and why I cannot get enough of the magic Glossier is selling.

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Skincare First

As I have matured, skincare has become top priority. Products that make me glow like I am well-loved and stress-free will always be a fave of mine. Glossier gets this right with a full line of products that take my glow to next-level heights. I use a three-part system that leaves me so radiant, makeup isn’t a necessity.

Milky Jelly Cleanser, $9+

What it is: A gentle-yet-effective creamy gel face wash for all skin types

For starters, I wash my face with Glossier’s Milky Jelly Cleanser. The subtle rosy scent of this cleanser immediately makes me smile but, more than that, the creamy texture infuses my skin with moisture from the onset. With five skin conditioners included, it’s no wonder this product is so soothing and nourishing. It is one of few cleansers that doesn’t leave my skin feeling dry after it is rinsed away. “Rejuvenating” best describes this one.

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After rinsing away the Milk Jelly Cleanser, I move right along to the Super Duo. It consists of two top-rated serums infused with vitamins. This combo works together to hydrate and brighten skin. Super Bounce is just what the doctor ordered for soothing moisture that hydrates with hyaluronic acid and Vitamin b5. Although the name speaks for itself, I can confirm that Super Glow indeed brightens skin with its powerful combination of Vitamin C and magnesium.

I follow up with a moisturizer and then jump into Futuredew.

If I had to choose only one Glossier product to live by, Futuredew would be it. You know that dewy fresh face look you get directly after using a good moisturizer or finishing up a facial? Futuredew creates this look with all-day staying power, and I cannot get enough of it. This serum is made of oils and light-reflecting minerals that will leave you looking glorious.

The Super Pack, $65

What it is: Three daily, vitamin-packed serums that deliver hydration, more even tone, and clarity

I could stop here and be over the moon, but when I’m feeling really ambitious, I use the following makeup products for a “no-makeup” look:

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Makeup Second

Glossier describes its makeup line as “Products that give you options but never cover you up, turn you into someone else, or over-complicate your routine.” And I cannot find a single lie. On days where I want to look fresh and lightly done, I go with Glossier all the way.

Starting with Cloud Paint cheek color, I set the tone. It’s literally a gel-cream blush you can’t mess up. This buildable color blends naturally and is easy to use. No brushes required. Simply dab a bit on your cheeks and use your finger to tap it into your skin. The end results? A slightly flushed look that makes it look like you’re truly blushing a bit from the inside out. It’s that simple.

Cloud Paint, $18

What it is: A seamless, buildable gel-cream blush that’s fun and easy to wear

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Next, I like to follow up with Haloscope in “Moonshine”. This crystal-infused highlighter enhances the dewy effect with a barely-there look that is irresistible. It’s my second fave product. The moment I FaceTimed my person and he said, “You look so beautiful. Don’t put on makeup today,” I KNEW Haloscope would forever hold a special place in my heart.

Haloscope, $22

What it is: A crystal-infused highlighter with skin conditioning benefits

I add a hint of color to my lips by using Generation G Sheer Matte Lipstick for a casual “I didn’t try” look. Although a matte finish, it’s packed with moisture and is the cherry on top of my “Yassssss, fresh face” look.

Glossier Pulled Up

Before going all-in on the dopeness of Glossier, I was sure to visit @pullupforchange to see Glossier’s diversity numbers. I was pleased to see the company’s commitment to diversity as well as its recent release of a new grant for black-owned beauty businesses. I am happy to report that we can shop Glossier guilt-free. That’s good news we can use.

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Why Keeping Your Skin Hydrated Is SO Important

When it comes to skin goals, one keyword that’s often overlooked is hydration. We’re often so busy trying to get rid of fine lines, minimize our pores, and get rid of hormonal pimples, that sometimes keeping our skin hydrated gets left behind. But the truth is, keeping your skin hydrated is one of the best things you can do for your skin – it’s a cornerstone of Korean skin routines – and you’ll likely find that by prioritizing this in your skincare routine that many of your other skin concerns will improve as a result.

New York-based dermatologist, Dr. Doris Day, explained, “Your skin is your first and best layer of protection for your body from the outside world. It functions at its best when it’s healthy and intact. When you have dry skin you have increased water loss from the skin which can end up not only leaving it dehydrated but also reduce its ability to naturally combat and repair damage from pollution, sun and other ‘insults.’” Therefore, making sure your skin is always hydrated means that your skin is able to function better.

Dehydrated skin lacks having enough water in it, which means it’s not a skin type, it’s something that everyone can experience, whether your skin is oily, normal or dry – in fact, sometimes excess oil can be caused by dehydration!

The Difference Between Dry and Dehydrated Skin

If you’re wondering what the difference is between dry and dehydrated skin, Dr. Day explains that “dry skin is related to the outermost layer of the skin, namely the stratum corneum,” whereas “dehydrated skin is skin that has had excess water loss due to both internal and external factors.” She continues to explain that “You can drink all the water there is and still have dry skin.”

However, dehydrated skin is usually down to a combo of internal and external factors, it could be that you’re not drinking enough water – you should aim for at least two liters a day – however, you can still have dehydrated skin while your body iis hydrated. Too much salty food, sugar, alcohol, and drinking too much caffeine are the most common contributors to dehydrated skin. External factors like “excess sun exposure and excess hot yoga, which essentially cook the water out of your skin,” will also cause skin dehydration.

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The Difference Between Hydrated and Dehydrated Skin

“Your skin contains a key ingredient called hyaluronic acid. Its job is to help with the water balance of the skin and even of the entire body. When your skin is well hydrated, the hyaluronic acid in your body binds water and that gives your skin firmness (the medical term for that is turgor). When your skin is dehydrated it will start to sag and that can make it look older and more wrinkled,” Dr. Day explains.

Essentially, Dr. Day says that “Dehydrated skin can look saggy, crepey and tired,” and that you may also notice increased under-eye bags. As well as these tell-tale signs, other signs to look for including your moisturizer absorbing particularly fast (it’s literally trying to ‘drink’ in the moisture), and it could cause your makeup to look patchy. Well-hydrated skin is a sign of good barrier function, which is important for protecting your skin.

Another point to note is that as we age, our skin produces less natural moisturizing factors like ceramides, lipids, hyaluronic acid, and fatty acids, so as you age, keeping your skin hydrated and well moisturized becomes even more important.

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How to Keep Your Skin Hydrated

Keeping your skin hydrated is a combination of ensuring you’re drinking enough water, going easy on the things we know dehydrate – and which are generally just not good for our body – like the aforementioned alcohol, sugar, and salt, and topically applying moisturizers to avoid water loss. If you’re dehydrated, Dr. Day says to “Avoid excess salt, moisturize well, especially at night.”

When it comes to products, Dr. Day says that ceramides and hyaluronic acid are the best for hydrating the face. When using hydrating products, it’s important to ensure you lock everything in with a moisturizer, which typically includes three types of ingredients: Emollients, humectants and occlusives. Dr. Day explains what each does;

Emollients: These ingredients moisturize the skin and help with skin barrier restoration. They smooth and soften the skin filling the gaps between cells with droplets of oils. Some emollients can also be considered occlusives. Emollients include, jojoba oil, ceramides, aloe vera, and oleic acid.

Occlusives: It creates a barrier on the skin and occludes (or blocks) water from leaving the skin from the inside, essentially trapping moisture in the skin and preventing other ingredients from penetrating the skin from the outside. These are typically thick and often greasy products. A classic example of occlusives include shea butter and petrolatum, which Dr. Day says are “great for the body and for those with very dry skin, but can be comedogenic and would not be ideal for those who are acne-prone or with oily skin.”

Humectants: “Ingredients like hyaluronic acid and lactic acid, they help pull water into the skin and hold it there. They are not usually occlusive,” Dr. Day tells us. Other humectants include honey, ceramides (which are essentially the building blocks of skin), glycerin, and amino acids.

Dr. Day also adds, “If you have very dry skin, you might select one that is richer and more occlusive. If you have combination skin, you would look for one that is lighter and more of a humectant.”

Dr. Day shares her top tips for keeping your skin hydrated:

Don’t over-exfoliate: “ That will strip the skin and lead to excess water loss.” Think about skipping out on your AHAs or opt for a more hydrating AHA, like lactic acid.

Hydrate deeply at nighttime: “ Use a richer moisturizer at night since you naturally lose more water from the skin at night.”

Go easy with actives: “ Don’t pile on the highest concentration of every acne medication; salicylic acid, glycolic acid, retinols are great but no need to use them all in their highest concentration or all at one time.”

Focus on your wellness: “ Getting enough sleep, minimizing alcohol intake, having a healthy diet all helps your skin function at its best.”

Choose skincare wisely: “ Using the right products for your skin will help it best use its own natural resources to repair and age beautifully.”

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Dr. Day’s top product recommendations for instant hydration:

Doris Day M.D. Ultra Rich Peptide Renewal Cream, $103: “It contains ceramides, shea butter, peptides and vitamin E, and improves the skin barrier. You get an immediate healthy glow and a great anti-aging effect.”

Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2, $128: “It also contains ceramides and its claim is that it helps improve tolerability to retinol.” The formula also packs essential lipids to restore skin elasticity and hydration cycles, and vitamin E for skin repair and to defend against environmental damage.

When your skin is particularly parched and dehydrated, be sure to stay away from ingredients like retinol and AHAs and BHAs. Instead, load up on hydrating ingredients like ceramide serums and hyaluronic acid and glycerin facial mists, throw on a sheet mask, and lock it all in with a rich, hydrating moisturizer. Whenever we need an instant hit of moisture, we always go to our FARMACY Coconut Gel Sheet Mask, $6, which is packed with coconut, cucumber and sodium hyaluronate to soothe and hydrate your skin, and allantoin and niacinamide to brighten and protect. The mask is dripping in serum thanks to a unique double-layer-fiber technology that allows it to hold significantly more of the powerful vitamin-rich essence than any conventional sheet mask.

TATCHA Luminous Dewy Skin Sheet Mask, $12, is a silky soft, skin-fitting sheet mask that delivers a healthy drink of ultra-hydrating botanical oils and extracts for a dewy glow in just one use. Packed with Rice germ oil, Okinawa Red Algae, Wild thyme, and Sweet Marjoram. The mask feeds skin with Japanese anti-aging superfoods such as a fermentation of green tea, rice, and algae—ingredients at the heart of the Japanese diet and time-tested skincare rituals—that restore skin health and youthful radiance.

Check out some of our other fave intensely hydrating products here.

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