Melanin is Amazing but I Need Sunscreen?

In the black community it’s a common misconception that our melanin infused skin completely eliminates the need for sunscreen as protection. Yes, our melanin does protect from some UV rays, but we actually do need to wear sunscreen too.

Skin cancer and aging lines don’t discriminate. Every skin tone on earth is at risk of being dried out, aged and burnt by the sun. It’s not too late to properly take care of your melanin.

Let’s take a moment to explore the reasons why sunscreen is a must, even for darker tones.

Cancer

This alone is good enough reason to buy sunscreen for your melanin. Skin cancer effects both light skin tones and dark. Your natural skin protectant blocks UV light up to SPF 13. This isn’t as strong as the sunscreen (SPF 30 is recommended) which is created for skin protection.

That means cancer can and will develop in your skin, if not properly protected. Studies also show that we are more likely to die from skin cancer than those with lighter skin. Melanated people are simply more likely to die from skin cancer because we aren’t looking for the signs and don’t take the necessary precautions to prevent skin cancers.

While people with dark skin have more melanin, which helps to protect their skin from UV rays, they are still at risk for developing different types of skin cancer, including melanomas. UV rays also contribute to photoaging, and regular use of sunscreen can help prevent the formation of wrinkles, dark spots, and sagging leathery skin.

You can find important information on skin cancer and melanin on Health Care’s website.

Aging and Dark Spots

One of the benefits of dark skin is the ability to look as if you haven’t aged a day. You want to keep these good looks, right? Don’t let the sun dry out your skin creating fine lines and wrinkles. It’s simply not worth it when you can purchase sunscreen designed specifically for your needs.

Sunlight also creates uneven skin tones and dark spots which can be totally avoided with a little sun screen. Aging spots and lines aren’t the only thing to worry about. Your skin will lose tone, and volume.

Sagging skin will become a reality if sunscreen isn’t used while you’re in the sun. This is especially true for those who live in areas like Texas, Florida and other places where the sun always shines.

Unwanted Burns

If you’ve never experienced a sunburn lucky you. It’s the worst feeling and seeing your skin peel right before your eyes is pretty weird. Sunburns can happen on all skin tones. Sure, you won’t burn as quickly as those with fair skin, but you can still develop burns.

Take the extra precaution of choosing the right sunscreen designed for your skin type. It doesn’t hurt to take these measures. In the long run your skin will truly thank you.

While you’re in the sun your skin will become darker, everyone knows this but do you know why? The tanning effect isn’t really a tan it’s a sign of skin damage from the sun. Your body produces more melanin in effort to protect that previous outer layer of skin.

Your melanin is amazing. It performs super hero like duties but unfortunately it cannot completely protect you from harmful UV rays. Take the time to research skin cancer in African Americans and purchase sunscreen. Your body will thank you.

Knowing the ingredients and the resulting properties isn’t on every shoppers mind, but the undesirable outcomes are. The majority of shoppers look for a product that isn’t greasy or that doesn’t leave a noticeable residue on the skin. A good deal of people also look for a product that is in line with their own ethics. I, for one, look for Vegan/ cruelty free products that also hydrate the skin. I normally just stick with Aveeno PROTECT + HYDRATE Lotion but today… well read on to see why Bolden SPF 30 Brightening Moisturizer got me singing ♪♪♪. (Click here to continue)

Hype or Not: Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay Review

While there are hundreds (if not thousands) of face masks options available, you’d be hard pressed to find one that boasts more five-star reviews and celeb love than the Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay Mask. Amazon customers are practically writing novels about how it has transformed their skin, sharing astonishing Aztec Clay Mask before-and-after photos.

Since going viral a few years ago, the mask has racked up over 13,000 positive reviews from Amazon shoppers who have referred to is as the “holy grail of face masks” for acne—and it makes sense because it’s made with 100 percent bentonite clay, which helps to draw out the skin’s impurities. Unlike most face masks—which come ready to apply—you’ll have to whip up your own concoction using equal parts Aztec Indian Healing clay and apple cider vinegar or water. Yes, it’s a little extra work, but reviewers and stars alike agree it’s totally worth the time because it leaves their pores feeling so refreshed.

WHAT IS IT: AZTEC SECRET INDIAN HEALING CLAY is natural Calcium Bentonite Clay from Death Valley, California, where it is sun- dried for up to six months in temperatures that sometimes reach 134 degrees. The unique structure of the molecules in Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay carry a negative electron charge. This comes from the valance electron count from the specific minerals found in Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay. This Indian Healing Clay lifts the pimple and blackheads into the clay bed to cause accelerated healing and nourishment to the skin with over 50 minerals.

  1. 100% NATURAL
  2. Deep pore cleaning with 100% natural calcium Bentonite Clay
  3. Does not contain: additives, fragrances or animal products
  4. Use for acne and blemishes. Use it once per week

HOW TO USE: After mixing with vinegar, apply the smooth, paste-like substance to the skin using your fingertips or, as reviewers recommend, with a silicone brush applicator, and allow it to dry for up to 20 minutes. (Note: Dry time can vary depending on your skin’s sensitivity.) As it dries, you’ll feel a pulling and tightening sensation, which is just the deep pore cleansing in action. The mask is so powerful that many customers recommend only using it once a week and moisturizing right after, as it’ll leave your skin feeling a tad on the dry side.

WARNING: Please note that when you rinse off the mask your face may be red and this is normal with this clay mask. This redness will be gone within 20 to 30 minutes.

PRIMP TIP: It’s easy to customize this clay mask depending on your skin’s mood. If you want a shot of moisture, add a teaspoon of raw honey to your mixture. For a more soothing formula, add some Aloe Vera gel, and if blemishes are an issue, a few drops of Tea Tree Oil will do the trick. Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay is as powerful as it is versatile.

“This product is AMAZING. It’s an official Holy Grail product of mine,” another reviewer wrote. “I ideally use it once-a-week, and it feels as if angels themselves have taken the time, to delicately renew my skin with the magical touch of their wings.”

Dramatic, yes, but the mask is so popular, it even has a long list of celeb fans, including Kourtney Kardashian—the latest A-list to chime in on her love for it. In a recent post on her website, Poosh, she shared that the Aztec clay mask is one of three products she rotates in her “self-care Sunday masking routine.” As it turns out, her sister Khloé Kardashian is also a huge fan, along with Mindy Kaling and Lili Reinhart.

In 2015, Kaling shared a photo on Instagram wearing the Aztec mask that she mixed with Bragg’s organic raw apple cider vinegar (also available on Amazon).

PRIMP TIP: I learned from some people that you should spray a hydrating facial mist on your face while the Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay is on your face. That way it will be kept moist and easier to remove and the clay will not take moisture off from your skin. It’s the same logic with sheet masks.

MY EXPERIENCE: This pulsating sensation is pretty intense as the clay mask is working hard to rid your skin of all the dirt and grime. You will feel some tugging! After the recommended 20 minutes, the clay concoction hardens and makes your face feel a little tight. That’s your cue to wash it all off. I was left with slightly reddish skin, but this dissipated after five to ten minutes. I looked in the mirror, and an unbelievably squeaky clean face greeted me. “Is this really MY skin?” I marveled.

That’s not all. After prolonged use, you will find that your skin is no longer as prone to breakouts. And there’s still so much clay left in the tub!

This clay mask is truly no joke. It leaves a wonderful sensation on your skin but more than that, it is healing. It heals by getting rid of all the grit and sebum that causes breakouts. With a great price to boot, great reviews by thousands of users and some pampering time on offer, you can’t go  wrong with this one.

*This product may or may not help you. If the pimple persists, you may need to know the type of pimple you have or better, consult a doctor.

Did you try the Aztec Secrets Indian Healing Clay Mask – the world’s most powerful facial!? Lemme know about your experience….

DIY: Gold Face Mask

I have always been a fan of gold mask treatments and knew the benefits. But, truthfully, I just started using gold masks around March of this year. If you follow me @beautyleebar then you know I am a firm believer in self care which sometimes include me trying on different face masks.

Discriminating against beauty products based on the suggested retail price isn’t in our DNA. From drugstore steals to luxury splurges — and everything in between — we have more than enough room in our hearts (and medicine cabinets) to embrace beauty products from all over the price-point spectrum. The luxurious 24K gold face masks is very trendy with celebrities at the moment. I can definitely confirm MissSpa Gold Face Mask is the truth at a affordable price range that still gives you that rich luxurious vibe.

I decided to cook up a at-home recipe for Gold Mask.

Ingredients:
Your favorite moisturizer
Gold leaf sheets

Directions:

I order a package of 24K gold leaves from Etsy.com ($30). The gold is food-grade and comes from Thailand, so it takes awhile to arrive in Florida. Because of that, I always make sure to order more before I run out.

Then, I simply wash my face as I normally would, making sure to get every last bit of makeup off. I cleanse two or three times, usually starting with a micellar water makeup remover, then doing 2 rounds of Clarisonic with a cleanser. I want my face to be REALLY clean.

Next, I apply a liberal amount of my favorite moisturizer, Ren Evercalm Global Protection Day Cream ($50) or TATCHA Creams. This is part of what helps the gold stick to my face, so I am very generous with the amount.

I then place the tiny squares of gold all over my T-zone, nose and cheeks, and wait. Sometimes 20 minutes, sometimes an hour. However long I can hang out with a face covered in gold. Then, simply rub it in with (clean) fingertips. (Don’t wash it off! Let the gold absorb into the skin for maximum results.)

I find that this mask makes my skin plump and radiant. It’s not a mask that will magically transform your skin in one use; this is more of a special occasion treat, for when you want that extra bit of glow. In other words, less treatment, more treat.

My favorite part of this discovery is that for $30 and a little patience and DIY, I get a brilliant mask that makes my skin look nearly perfect without makeup. Many luxury brands charge hundreds of dollars for “gold-infused” products, but I feel that I’m getting a superior experience at a relatively inexpensive price point. One package of 100 sheets of gold allows me to do about 5 face masks, which works out to $6 per mask. Luxury at a bargain!

Also, Cleopatra was rumored to do this every night. If it’s good enough for her, it’s good enough for me!

THE TRUTH ABOUT KYLIE SKIN!

So as soon as Kylie mentioned she was moving into skincare, the beauty world held its breath in anticipation and penciled the release date in their calendars – we needn’t remind you that Kylie cosmetics typically sell out in 24 hours! Like I said in my Kylie Skin Review, since its’ launch, many people including beauty gurus have been praising the line as well as critiquing it.

The main concerns from the public are about the two ingredients used in her product line – squalane and hydroxyacetophenone. The issues seem to be around the sourcing of these ingredients, which I don’t find to be a problem (read on). Instead, my only issue is the use of vitamin C and sodium benzoate in the Kylie Skin cleanser.

Kylie Skin — Squalane and Hydroxyacetophenone Controversy

After reviewing multiple critiques about the issue, I want to take defense for Kylie Skin about these two ingredients. The official website and Kylie herself stated that all Kylie Skin products are vegan and cruelty-free. However, according to the widespread critiques, in Kylie Skin products’ ingredient list, squalane, which is found in both the Kylie Skin Vanilla Milk Toner and Kylie Skin Walnut Face Scrub, is derived from sharks; Hydroxyacetophenone, used in Foaming face wash and Vanilla Milk Toner, is derived from beavers. If this were true, that would make the ingredients the products decidedly un-“cruelty-free” since these are taken from animals.

However, it’s important to know that there are alternative ways to obtain these ingredients, and such alternatives can make Kylie’s products compatible with being vegan and cruelty-free. For instance, chemists used to derive solely squalane from shark liver oils, but they’ve now found ways to derive squalane from olives and sugarcane.

I actually just wrote a comprehensive blog post that explains the difference between these two types of squalane, and we found that both sugarcane-derived squalane and olive-derived squalane are high-quality and actually more economical to source than shark livers, especially sugarcane in the latter regard. In fact, most skincare products nowadays have already stopped using the shark-derived squalane, instead using plant-derived squalane. Think about it this way, if you can get the same quality of squalane from olives or sugarcane, why do you want to take it from sharks that are very costly and may make your brand nefarious to ever-increasing numbers of people who want cruelty-free ingredients? Besides, as Kylie clarified later, her squalane is from olives.

Another controversial ingredient was hydroxyacetophenone, which is used in the Kylie Skin Foaming Face Wash and Kylie Skin Vanilla Milk Toner. There are three types of hydroxyacetophenone: 2-Hydroxyacetophenone, 3-Hydroxyacetophenone, and 4-Hydroxyacetophenone. Of these, only the 3-Hydroxyacetophenone is from mature beavers and it can’t even be used as an ingredient in personal care products. According to Chemicalbook.com, 3-Hydroxyacetophenone is a hazardous chemical compound which may cause skin irritation, eye irritation, and respiratory irritation. It’s even recommended for lab researchers to wear protective clothing and wash hands thoroughly after handling this material due to its harm to skin. And unlike many ingredients that are warned about in only very high concentrations, small amounts of 3-hydroxyacetophenone can be a problem. As you can see, it’s quite obvious that this is not the type of Hydroxyacetophenone used in the Kylie Skin ingredients.

However, 4-Hydroxyacetophenone is the one that was used in Kylie Skin products — a completely different compound. 4-Hydroxyacetophenone is an ingredient that can be commonly used in pharmaceutical drugs, and it’s found in needles and mycorrhizal roots of Norway spruces, which makes it compatible with being vegan. It works with preservatives to boost its efficacy and prevent skincare products from corrosions.

My Actual Concern: Kylie Skin Foaming Face Wash

Rather than these two ingredients, I have more concerns about the formula used in Foaming Face Wash. The official websites describes this cleanser as “infused with ultra-nourishing kiwi seed oil, packed with Vitamin C and E to help maintain moisture and improve elasticity.”

However, in the ingredient list I’ve found a debating combination: Vitamin C and sodium benzoate. These two ingredients are known to create benzene together in the presence of light and air. Kylie Skin foaming face wash’ transparent package is apparently not enough to protect the contents from light, and may leave the product vulnerable to outside light, so I wouldn’t want to use it. Further, it’s a known fact that skin care products contain Vitamin C should be stored in opaque and airless containers. Kylie Skin did a great job on airless packaging as none of its product is stored in jars, but the transparent packages of face wash again can make the beneficial ingredients inside like vitamin C lose its potency due to the exposure to light.

Last but not least, walnut scrub is one product that receives a lot of critiques about its main ingredient: walnut shell powder. It’s scientifically shown to be impossible to make walnut shell particles smooth, and therefore may cause microscopic scrapes on skin during the usage. It does sound frightening, but it works pretty much the same way as all physical exfoliators do. Typically, physical exfoliators are more harsh, and more difficult to handle since some of them may bring irritation and sensitivities to skin. That’s why the majority of dermatologists recommend using chemical exfoliators instead, since chemical exfoliators are proven to work more effective and more gentle on skin. My recommendation for using the walnut face scrub is to use carefully and gently, use it less often than you did with other exfoliators, most importantly, pay attention to how your skin react and adjust your way of using it based on your skin conditions.

Bottom Line

I like the Kylie Skin line overall, and do find it to be cruelty-free, despite the controversy you might read online elsewhere. But I would avoid the Kylie Skin Foaming Face Wash, if for no other reason than its combination of vitamin C and sodium benzoate, which I do not like.

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Disclaimer:

The purpose of this blog is for skin care and beauty-related reviews and tips only. It is not intended as and does not substitute for medical advice. Information posted should not be construed as personal medical advice. Posts are not intended to diagnose, treat, or cure disease.