5 Things You Didn’t Know About Black Women’s Hair

Hair. We all have it, but, for Black women, hair is much more than just what grows out of our heads and keeps us warm. Our hair is love, culture, and language. It’s how we express ourselves and communicate with the world around us about who we are and what we are about. The doing and undoing of Black hair is a cultural rite of passage. Black people are able to create and maintain a sense of community with one another simply through our hair. While our hair is understood by those who are a part of our community, it can be a source of confusion for those who aren’t. In an effort to bridge cultural gaps, I’d like to make sure that some things are well understood about Black women and our hair.

1. First and foremost, sis—DO NOT TOUCH IT.

I can’t stress this enough. Do not touch a Black woman’s hair without permission first. On a personal level, it’s incredibly invasive and rude to physically assert yourself in someone’s personal space without asking. How would you if a total stranger or random co-worker were to invade your personal space for the sake of satisfying their own curiosity? Would you not feel reduced and devalued if someone decided to follow their urge to wrap their fingers in unfamiliar territory? It’s weird at best, and dehumanizing at least. A Black woman’s hair is not your personal exploratorium. When our hair is touched without permission, we feel violated and devalued, because at that moment we are not seen as human, but as objects. As women, I’m sure many of us know how that feels. It’s incredibly frustrating for someone to totally disregard your personal agency and autonomy just so they can satisfy themselves. I’m all for non-Black people educating themselves and increasing their cultural competence, but a Black woman’s scalp is not your hands-on classroom. 

2. Our “carefree” styles take a lot of time. 

Contrary to popular belief, Black women are not out here summoning the energy of Queen Bey and rising from the bed with the same ability as the almighty Beyonce; we did not wake up like this! I know our afros are super cute. I know our curly styles are to die for but hear me out: these styles are a labor of love. Heavy emphasis on labor. Our “afros” are perfectly styled with the labor and intention of a small army. These “carefree” styles take a lot of time, effort, and product. Have you ever heard of a thing called “wash day”?? It’s literally a day that Black women with natural hair dedicate to detangling our tresses and perfectly styling our manes. Wash day takes several hours, if not a full day. Our world stops as we take the time to allow ourselves or someone else to help us look our best. My last set of braids took 6 hours. My wash day (once a week) is at least five hours long, and this does not include the time it takes to dry my hair, which if left to its own devices, takes at least 36 hours to fully dry without the use of a dryer. When’s the last time you had to take an entire day just to wash your hair?

3. Black girl hair is magic. 

No one can shapeshift like a Black woman. We can switch styles with ease. Long, flowing locks on Monday, braids on Tuesday, a wig on Wednesday, an afro on Thursday, and a sleek bun on Friday. Our hair can withstand a lot of manipulation and has the strength to hold a lot of different styles. If you personally know a Black woman, I’m sure you’ve been befuddled a time or two by the way we can change our look. If you see a Black woman who’s switched the style up, don’t be baffled. Black hair is magic. Our tight, shrunken curls can stretch out to two or three times their curled length when pulled. Our hair can go from perfectly coiled at ear length to mid-back with just a little pull.

4. Black hair is political. 

Historically and currently, Black people have been policed about our hair and how it naturally grows from our heads, especially in professional environments. If you google “unprofessional hairstyles,” you’ll see a large number of Black and Brown people with their beautiful curls. To this day, Black people can be fired for wearing their hair in natural styles instead of adhering to a white beauty standard. I’m not bringing this up to be radical, I’m bringing this up to show how absurd it is for the world to deem Black people’s natural hair as problematic, unkempt, or unprofessional. The language surrounding that is intentional. The impact and implications of that are as intentional and harmful. 

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5. Black hair is love. 

Our hair is love. It’s culture. It’s how we communicate who we are and who we belong to. Our hair is complex and wild, but it is our pleasure to don. Black hair unites Black people. We rely on each other to care for it, style it, and share in the labor of loving on it. I can’t tell you how many good conversations have been had while in my stylist chair or how many family recipes and secrets my mother divulged while she braided my hair. 

When you see our hair, just know you’re looking at our culture. It’s more than a head full of curls. It’s more than very neat braids. It’s an expression of our culture and who we are. You are looking at what makes us so beautifully unique.

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Will It Fit? Straddling Between Standard and Plus-Size

I recently found myself browsing the promotions tab of my Gmail inbox and decided to click on one from a store that I don’t normally shop at that was having a sale. I was then shocked to discover that their “regular” sizing only went up to a 10, and “plus” sizing starts at a 12. I usually wear somewhere between a size 8 and a size 12. Regular and plus-size ranges often fit differently, so I was faced with a dilemma: if I were to order from this store, which size range would I order from?

It got me thinking about the struggle I sometimes encounter in trying to find the right size at certain stores. At stores like Forever 21, for example, if a large doesn’t fit me, it’s almost impossible to find a size XL or pants in any sort of inclusive sizes in store. And then if I go to the plus section, I can’t find a size that fits there either. Their plus range starts at a 0X, but those are very hard to come by in store as well.

Unfortunately, stores like these aren’t the only ones where mid- and plus-sized women might struggle. Lululemon was exposed for keeping their small selection of the largest sizes they carry, 10s and 12s, in a separate and messy area in the back of the store and rarely restocking them, as Business Insider reported. High-end brands and celebrity or influencer clothing lines often only go up to a size large and an 8 or 10, but 68 percent of American women wear a size 14 or above, as per Racked.

As brands become more and more inclusive (as they should), they tend to ignore a group of millions of consumers that would be considered “mid-size” or “in-betweeners.” On websites and in advertising, we often see models on the smaller end of the spectrum for both standard and plus/curve size ranges. The lack of mid-size women wearing a 10, 12 or 14 is apparent. And if they are there, they’re considered plus-size.

Ashley Graham, widely regarded as one of the world’s most famous “plus-size” models, is a size 16. The fashion industry is built to divide women into only two size categories: sample and plus, and when a model is a size 8 or above, they’re automatically looped into the plus-size category. Celebrities like Amy Schumer and Mindy Kaling have spoken out about how they are often referred to as plus-size actresses, but Schumer has said she is a size 6 to 8, and Kaling a size 8.

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When this happens, brands not only forget to include options and representation for women who fall in the middle, but set standards that could be harmful to young girls’ body image. Every body type is beautiful, and I’m part of the group that believes brands can provide inclusive size ranges without separating women into categories. As Time reported, Melissa McCarthy said, “Women come in all sizes. Seventy percent of women in the United States are a size 14 or above, and that’s technically ‘plus-size,’ so you’re taking your biggest category of people and telling them, ‘You’re not really worthy.’”

Women come in all sizes. Seventy percent of women in the United States are a size 14 or above, and that’s technically ‘plus-size,’ so you’re taking your biggest category of people and telling them, ‘You’re not really worthy.’

One of the major reasons that mid-size women often have trouble finding clothes that fit is the limitations in patterns that clothing pieces are made from. Because of cost restrictions, designers often have a sample size pattern (a 2 or 4) as well as a plus-size pattern (a 14 or 16 — if that’s something they offer) that they make tweaks to for the rest of the size range. When a size 2 pattern is being tweaked for up to a size 12 or 14, distortions occur and the clothes don’t actually fit the real women who wear these sizes. This pattern issue is also the reason that a size 14 in a regular size range tends to fit differently and usually smaller than a size 14 in a plus-size range. 

As everyone has probably experienced, sizing in women’s fashion is extremely inconsistent across the board. We already live in a world where we have to deal with the dread of standing in a dressing room staring in the mirror at yourself sweating, trying on clothing item after clothing item that doesn’t fit. Is it too much to ask that retailers just provide us with inclusive, standard sizing and representation without putting us in meaningless categories?

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Thankfully (and many years too late), these conversations are now being had and things are beginning to change. There has been a recent rise in mid-size fashion bloggers, looking to fill the gap in influencers who have body types that everyone, regardless of what size they wear, can relate to and get inspiration from. YouTubers and Instagram influencers such as P A S S I O N J O N E S Z, STEPHANIE PEREIRA, Carrie Dayton, Lucy Wood and 𝑫𝑨𝑵𝑰 𝑫𝑴𝑪 who both have said in their videos that they typically wear a size 12 or 14, use their platforms to discuss their struggles in finding clothing to fit their self-proclaimed mid-size bodies and sometimes straddling the line between regular and plus sizes. If you’re interested in checking out their Youtube videos, start with Lucy Wood | MIDSIZE GIRLS WHO’LL CHANGE YOUR LIFE.

MIDSIZE GIRLS WHO’LL CHANGE YOUR LIFE | LUCY WOOD

Is it too much to ask that retailers just provide us with inclusive, standard sizing and representation without putting us in meaningless categories?

Some brands are beginning to recognize their lack of inclusivity and are making changes to their branding, advertising, and websites. Aerie, for example, has made headlines for banning the alteration of their advertising photos and vowing to be more inclusive in both sizing and representation, as Time reported. Its parent company, American Eagle, has a feature on their website where you can see the same jeans on models who wear sizes 00, 6, 12, and 22. 

As women in the United States, trying to find clothes that fit us can be extremely hard. On any given day, I can be a size 8 in one store and a size 14 in another. I didn’t even know that there was an entire community of women out there who are also facing this “mid-size” or “in-betweener” struggle, until I found the influencers who are talking about it openly — and I hope that anyone facing the same dilemma can relate as well. We are all beautiful, and we all deserve clothes (and lots of them) that fit!

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The Acne-Prevention Strategies Glasses Wearers Need to Know

How four eyes become five

After months of procrastinating to get a new prescription, I finally decided to splurge on a pair of glasses… can’t wait! But with them came a surprise: acne.

It seemed like there was a new pimple on the bridge of my nose basically every other day. Because I hadn’t purchased my new glasses yet and because those pimples always appeared in that specific spot, my beautiful now old glasses were unfortunately the primary suspect.

Sure, being able to see is cool and all, but wouldn’t it be great if it didn’t also cause breakouts? Yes! It would!!! In fact, I talked to an expert about how to deal with this exact situation. Here’s what I learned.

How to know if it’s actually acne

The biggest clue that your glasses are causing acne is where the acne is showing up: The bridge of your nose, your cheeks where the rims sit, and the ears where they might rub are all common places.

The other major sign is if you can say, ‘I didn’t have it,’ and then all of a sudden you develop it, which is exactly what happened to me. Maybe this is your first pair of frames, maybe you took a break from your glasses or alternate with wearing contacts. Whatever the reasoning is, the point is you have and you’re getting pimples in places you’ve never seen before. And, now you’re wearing glasses, that’s another clue that your glasses are to blame.

But other conditions can mimic acne, even in those areas. One to look out for is called acanthoma fissurataum, which is a patch of thickened skin that experts think develops after repeated trauma to an area—and it specifically occurs in people who wear glasses. So if your frames are constantly rubbing on the top of your ears or the bridge of your nose, they might cause this.

How do glasses cause acne?

It’s really from too much pressure. This form of acne—acne mechanica—develops when something is pushing down on the skin, which prevents the normal shedding of skin cells. Instead, those skin cells clog up your pores and lead to acne. Having oily skin and wearing thicker makeup just add to the issue.

Acne mechanica is also common among those who play sports or wear restrictive athletic clothing because those clothes can trap sweat and heat, making it even more likely that the pressure from clothing or equipment will cause acne in areas that those garments touch.

Here’s how to deal.

Luckily, once you’re sure it’s acne, there are specific ways to treat the bumps in those sensitive areas on your face as well as to prevent them from coming back.

  • Get your glasses adjusted. If you find that you’re having to push your glasses up your nose frequently or they’re so thick or heavy that they’re causing acne in the cheek area where the lenses touch your face, you should go to your eye doctor or wherever you got your glasses to have them adjusted. Sometimes the answer is getting new bridges put on the nose so you spread the pressure.
  • Wipe your glasses down frequently. Make sure you’re cleaning your glasses. We suggest getting a basic alcohol wipe and swabbing it over every part that touches your face every night.
  • Use an over-the-counter acne wash. Using an over-the-counter acne wash with salicylic acid in it at night is an easy way to manage mild acne all over the face, especially if you notice it on your cheeks and not just on the bridge of your nose.
  • Use an over-the-counter spot treatment. If your acne bumps are primarily confined to one area of your face, such as the bridge of your nose, a spot treatment containing salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide is the way to go. Other options include acne patches you can wear overnight and prescription topical antibiotics.
  • Take breaks from wearing your glasses if possible. Your glasses obviously serve a very important purpose. But if it’s possible for you to take breaks from them during the day, taking advantage of that cuts down on the likelihood that they’ll cause acne.
  • Use a makeup remover before cleansing. Make sure that you’re really getting your makeup off. The buildup of makeup under your glasses can definitely contribute to acne, so it’s important to make sure it’s all off—with the help of a makeup remover or micellar water—even before you wash your face. And when it comes to washing, opt for a cleanser that isn’t oil-based.
  • Use concealers with salicylic acid. While your acne is healing, we suggest going with concealers that contain salicylic acid to keep treating them while covering up any bumps.

When to check with a derm

If you’re not sure if you have acne or something else is going on, it’s always a good idea to talk to a professional. And if what you think is acne isn’t going away with those measures, or if you have a lot of acne on other parts of your face, too, it’s important to check with your derm about the best way to manage it. They may be able to prescribe you an antibiotic medication that can take better care of all the acne.

And if your bumps aren’t going away or don’t seem to be healing, they may be a sign of another condition—including, possibly, skin cancer—that you’ll want to get checked out sooner rather than later.

But for most of us with glasses, acne is a common yet manageable annoyance.

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BEAUTYLEEBAR does not provide medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Any information published on this website or by this brand is not intended as a substitute for medical advice, and you should not take any action before consulting with a healthcare professional.

How to Treat and PREVENT MASK-NE AKA “Mask Acne” – It’s A Thing!

If it wasn’t enough that half of our lovely faces must remain covered by masks these days, now we are starting to suffer breakouts as a result. It doesn’t help that we are entering a heat wave and the height of summer is around the corner, just in time to bundle up an area we typically let breathe, literally and figuratively, 24/7.

Higher temps and covering up equals sweat, and it’s not the only culprit. Masks trap moisture from our breath, oil from our skin, and dirt and makeup underneath as well, for a nice little brew of bacteria bubbling over like a witch’s cauldron ready to make trouble. Friction and pressure amplify the issue by rubbing the irritants, particles, and trapped moisture, essentially grinding them into your pores.

Also, since most of us don’t have access to professional-grade masks and are using homemade masks or thin fashion masks, we are constantly adjusting them, causing us to touch them and our faces, defeating the very purpose of the masks in the first place. Truly a face-palm moment. But please don’t touch your palm to your face.

So how do we prevent, treat, or minimize the issue? If the symptoms of mask-wearing are taking a big toll on your skin, you’ll want to heed all of these suggestions carefully.

OH WAIT…. Before diving into the fix, let’s first talk about why face masks are giving people so much trouble. Regarding acne, there are two primary issues to consider.  

Why Face Masks Cause Breakouts and Chafing 

First, direct friction promotes inflammation in the skin and breakouts, known as ‘acne mechanica.’ Second, face masks trap humidity [from simply breathing], oil, and sweat on the skin and allow for overgrowth of microorganisms, which collectively block the pores and lead to acne flares,” he explains. “As for chafing, this is essentially skin barrier disruption and inflammation from chronic rubbing of an external surface against the skin. For face mask to be effective, they need to form a tight seal on the skin, which leads to chafing.” 

 Anyone can develop acne, inflammation, and chafing from wearing masks – even those who usually have super clear skin. That said, those who are more prone to the aforementioned issues, such as people with sensitive skin, thin skin, chronic skin ailments, and acne-prone skin, are more likely to experience trouble.  

Have a week long supply of masks.

If you go out a lot, or at least daily (and as businesses begin to re-open, we will all begin to reacclimate with the outside world again and, yes, leave the house more), you should have at the very least a mask for each day. In fact, it’s been suggested that we think of our masks like underwear. You wouldn’t wear a pair of panties again without washing them, would you? And those don’t get exposed to the outside world or our constant fondling. Unless they do. Do you boo.

Avoid makeup.

This one may be hard for some to stick with 100% of the time, but it’s something to seriously consider. When half of our face remains covered anyway, there is no point in laying on a thick layer of concealer or foundation only to have it clog the pores that are trapped with excess sweat, moisture, oil, and daily grime. Keep your makeup minimal around the masked area, and opt for some mascara. It’s really our eyes that do the talking with this new-normal look, anyway.

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Opt for natural fibers.

There are lots of cute masks out there, but polyester, satin, and even rayon aren’t doing your skin any big favors unless it’s a high-quality, thick rayon. Opt for silk or soft cotton materials so that your skin can breathe and you have some airflow. Polyester essentially works like plastic wrap to trap moisture until you take it off, so natural and breathable is absolutely the way to go.

Double cleanse, and then cleanse again.

If double-cleansing has always come off a bit extreme to you, now might be the time to change your mind, or at least make an exception for the days you wear a mask. Massaging thoroughly with a cleansing oil or balm pulls impurities from your pores without stripping your skin of all moisture. Follow up with another thorough cleanse with either your first cleanser or a gentle, non-drying gel to completely remove any remaining traces of makeup or dirt that have been pushed into your pores. And, if you typically just rinse in the morning, up your routine to cleansing then, too.

Up your exfoliation game.

If you typically exfoliate once a week, it might be OK to exfoliate a little more often, especially around the lower half of your face. Since it’s subject to extra congestion right now, lighten the load with a gentle peeling pad twice a week.

Use a clay mask at least once a week around the area, and spot treat at night. If you’re in and out of a mask during the day, you might even want to keep gentle toner pads on hand to give your skin an extra cleansing swipe between washings. Make sure to moisturize thoroughly at night and use a heavier cream to avoid drying.

Apply a Zinc-Based SPF.

Before putting on your mask, apply a layer of zinc oxide-based SPF. Zinc oxide is both a mineral UV blocker and skin protectant that is a main ingredient in baby diaper creams. It helps form a seal over the skin to provide some level of protection from the mask itself. We’re fond of Versed Skin Guards Up Daily Mineral Sunscreen, $22, and Aveeno Positively Mineral Sensitive Sunscreen, $10. 

Treat Your Acne Head-On.

Those dealing with unforgiving, stubborn acne despite following the advice above should also take the spot-treatment approach. We recommend a product that contains benzoyl peroxide – such as Neutrogena On the Spot Acne Treatment, $9 – which helps lower levels of acne–causing bacteria to reduce inflammation of the skin. We also like Hero Cosmetics Micropoint for Blemishes, $13.  

Have more questions about maskne? Let’s chat in the comment section below!