5 Things You Didn’t Know About Black Women’s Hair

Hair. We all have it, but, for Black women, hair is much more than just what grows out of our heads and keeps us warm. Our hair is love, culture, and language. It’s how we express ourselves and communicate with the world around us about who we are and what we are about. The doing and undoing of Black hair is a cultural rite of passage. Black people are able to create and maintain a sense of community with one another simply through our hair. While our hair is understood by those who are a part of our community, it can be a source of confusion for those who aren’t. In an effort to bridge cultural gaps, I’d like to make sure that some things are well understood about Black women and our hair.

1. First and foremost, sis—DO NOT TOUCH IT.

I can’t stress this enough. Do not touch a Black woman’s hair without permission first. On a personal level, it’s incredibly invasive and rude to physically assert yourself in someone’s personal space without asking. How would you if a total stranger or random co-worker were to invade your personal space for the sake of satisfying their own curiosity? Would you not feel reduced and devalued if someone decided to follow their urge to wrap their fingers in unfamiliar territory? It’s weird at best, and dehumanizing at least. A Black woman’s hair is not your personal exploratorium. When our hair is touched without permission, we feel violated and devalued, because at that moment we are not seen as human, but as objects. As women, I’m sure many of us know how that feels. It’s incredibly frustrating for someone to totally disregard your personal agency and autonomy just so they can satisfy themselves. I’m all for non-Black people educating themselves and increasing their cultural competence, but a Black woman’s scalp is not your hands-on classroom. 

2. Our “carefree” styles take a lot of time. 

Contrary to popular belief, Black women are not out here summoning the energy of Queen Bey and rising from the bed with the same ability as the almighty Beyonce; we did not wake up like this! I know our afros are super cute. I know our curly styles are to die for but hear me out: these styles are a labor of love. Heavy emphasis on labor. Our “afros” are perfectly styled with the labor and intention of a small army. These “carefree” styles take a lot of time, effort, and product. Have you ever heard of a thing called “wash day”?? It’s literally a day that Black women with natural hair dedicate to detangling our tresses and perfectly styling our manes. Wash day takes several hours, if not a full day. Our world stops as we take the time to allow ourselves or someone else to help us look our best. My last set of braids took 6 hours. My wash day (once a week) is at least five hours long, and this does not include the time it takes to dry my hair, which if left to its own devices, takes at least 36 hours to fully dry without the use of a dryer. When’s the last time you had to take an entire day just to wash your hair?

3. Black girl hair is magic. 

No one can shapeshift like a Black woman. We can switch styles with ease. Long, flowing locks on Monday, braids on Tuesday, a wig on Wednesday, an afro on Thursday, and a sleek bun on Friday. Our hair can withstand a lot of manipulation and has the strength to hold a lot of different styles. If you personally know a Black woman, I’m sure you’ve been befuddled a time or two by the way we can change our look. If you see a Black woman who’s switched the style up, don’t be baffled. Black hair is magic. Our tight, shrunken curls can stretch out to two or three times their curled length when pulled. Our hair can go from perfectly coiled at ear length to mid-back with just a little pull.

4. Black hair is political. 

Historically and currently, Black people have been policed about our hair and how it naturally grows from our heads, especially in professional environments. If you google “unprofessional hairstyles,” you’ll see a large number of Black and Brown people with their beautiful curls. To this day, Black people can be fired for wearing their hair in natural styles instead of adhering to a white beauty standard. I’m not bringing this up to be radical, I’m bringing this up to show how absurd it is for the world to deem Black people’s natural hair as problematic, unkempt, or unprofessional. The language surrounding that is intentional. The impact and implications of that are as intentional and harmful. 

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5. Black hair is love. 

Our hair is love. It’s culture. It’s how we communicate who we are and who we belong to. Our hair is complex and wild, but it is our pleasure to don. Black hair unites Black people. We rely on each other to care for it, style it, and share in the labor of loving on it. I can’t tell you how many good conversations have been had while in my stylist chair or how many family recipes and secrets my mother divulged while she braided my hair. 

When you see our hair, just know you’re looking at our culture. It’s more than a head full of curls. It’s more than very neat braids. It’s an expression of our culture and who we are. You are looking at what makes us so beautifully unique.

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Thinking About Going Natural? Here Are the Haircare Terms You Should Know

Whether you’ve just recently decided to go natural or if you’ve long been wearing your hair in its unprocessed form, there’s always so much to learn about having natural hair. Before you attempt to absorb all there is to know about caring for your curls, we’re here to provide you with a few useful terms that’ll likely be of service to you in the long run. This, of course, is in no way a guide to everything you’ve ever wanted to know about natural hair, but we’d say it’s a great start.

Ahead, you’ll find a glossary of sorts, featuring 20 haircare terms that should be in every natural’s vocabulary.

Related: 7 Instagram Natural Hairstyle Accounts That Might Convince You to Do Another Big Chop

Curl Pattern

Curl pattern is a term used to describe the shape of your hair strands when they’re in their natural state. It’s usually broken down into four types: type 1 hair is typically bone straight; type 2 hair is wavy; type 3 hair is curly; and type 4 is coily. From there, the types are broken down into three subcategories each (a, b, and c) that are determined based on the width of your waves or curls.

Elasticity

This refers to your hair’s ability to return to its natural shape after being pulled, stretched, or heated in any way. Hair with low elasticity normally won’t return to its natural shape, while hair with high elasticity will.

Porosity

Porosity refers to your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. It’s looked at in three different categories — low, medium, and high porosity — and it’s normally determined by the way your hair’s cuticles lay. Head over here for a more in-depth breakdown on what that means.

Sulfates

Think of sulfates as the reason why your shampoo lathers up and thickens the way it does when you work it into your hair. They are chemicals that are often found in cleaning products, and they’re widely debated in the hair community, since many people think they’re harmful and have the power to strip the hair of its natural oils and nutrients. On the other hand, there are also those who believe sulfates aren’t as bad for your hair as they’re made out to be.

Humectants

Humectants are chemicals found in hair products that promote moisture retention.

Sealant

Not to be confused with a moisturizer, a sealant is any product that sits on top of the cuticle to hold the moisture in your hair. These typically come in the form of oils and butters, and are to be applied after a moisturizer, since some of the oil molecules aren’t small enough to actually penetrate your hair shaft. Some popular sealants include jojoba oil, Jamaican black castor oil, and shea butter.

Moisturizer

On the flip side, a moisturizer is any product that — you guessed it — moisturizes your hair. When attempting to determine if a product will work as a good moisturizer, consider the amount of water that’s in the product; if water is the first ingredient listed on the label, you should be okay. Leave-in conditioners and light oils (coconut, avocado) often fall into this category.

Transition

Transitioning refers to the process of . . . well . . . “transitioning” from processed or relaxed hair to natural hair. A person who’s in the transitioning phase is someone who’s cut the use of harsh chemicals and heat from their haircare regimen and has opted to grow their hair out in its natural state while slowly trimming off their processed ends. They do this until their natural hair has grown to a length they’re comfortable with and their damaged ends are gone completely.

Big Chop

This process is often looked at as an alternative to transitioning, since big chopping your hair means cutting off all of your relaxed or processed hair at once. That said, you can also transition your hair before performing a big chop, growing it out slowly until you can clearly see where your natural hair and what’s left of your processed strands meet.

Shrinkage

Shrinkage refers to curly or coily hair’s ability to shrink up and look a few inches shorter than it actually is. When your hair is stretched — via twist outs, braid outs, blowouts, etc. (more on that later) — it should be able to shrink back to its normal state, as shrinkage is normally a sign that your hair is healthy and properly moisturized.

LOC Method

LOC is an acronym of “liquid, oil, cream,” and it’s basically a mnemonic device (think PEMDAS or ROYGBIV) that can be used to help you remember how to order certain products when you apply them to your hair. In this case, you’d use a liquid-based product or leave-in conditioner, followed by a sealing oil and a moisturizer.

Twist Out

This one’s a popular styling method achieved by installing several twists throughout a head of wet or damp hair before allowing them to set or dry for several hours. Some people also like to manipulate their twist outs by wrapping flexi rods at the end of each twist to give their ends a little more support in the curl department. Depending on how fast your hair dries, twists are typically taken out within a day or two of being installed, with the end result being a head of superdefined curls that can be worn for days at a time.

Braid Out

A braid out is essentially the same as a twist out, except it’s done with braids. Braid outs often stretch the hair more than twist outs do, which is good for anyone hoping to sport a style that shows off a little more length, but they often take a bit longer to dry as well.

Wash and Go

A wash and go is exactly what it sounds like, though there’s just a little more to it than literally just washing and going. It’s basically when a person washes their hair and wears it out in its natural state without twisting, braiding, or using tools to curl it. Typically leave-in conditioners and other products like curl creams or styling gels are added to keep frizz at bay for these styles.

Protective Style

A protective style is basically any hairstyle that tucks away the ends of your hair and protects them against possible damage from factors like weather, chemicals, and over-manipulation. Ideally, they require only a small amount of maintenance and are often a go-to for those looking to experiment with various colors and hair lengths without the risk of putting extra stress on their strands.

TWA

An abbreviation of “teeny weeny afro, a TWA is a natural hairstyle formed on hair that’s typically about 1-2 inches in length.

Co-Wash

“Co-wash” is an abbreviation for “conditioner-only washing,” which is pretty self-explanatory. People who use conditioner to cleanse their hair and scalp normally do so as a way to avoid the use of harsh, sulfate-filled shampoos that can often strip the hair of natural oils. Conditioners don’t technically cleanse the hair, though, these days, you can purchase conditioners that have special cleansing benefits.

Pre-Poo

A pre-poo (or pre-shampoo) is an oil or conditioning treatment that’s applied to the hair before shampoo. It’s normally necessary if you’re looking to detangle or add a little extra moisture to your hair ahead of a wash.

Protein Treatment

Protein treatments are reparative products that are used to help strengthen damaged and porous hair by attaching a variety of proteins and nutrients directly to the follicle. Because of how intensive they are, it’s best to limit yourself to using protein-rich products every four to six weeks.

Deep Conditioning Treatment

Not to be confused with protein treatments, deep conditioners are intensive conditioners that provide the hair with an extra boost of moisture after shampooing. They’re usually applied to the hair and allowed to sit for at least 30 mins before being rinsed out. Depending on how dry your hair is, they can normally be used one to two times a week.

GOT NATURAL HAIR? CHECK OUT THESE 7 INSTAGRAM ACCOUNTS FOR INSPO

Calling all you ladies with textured hair. Let down your curls, kinks and coily patterns and embrace the beauty that is the natural hair community. If you’ve been on the hunt for inspiration on ways to style, take care of and even feel empowered by your hair, what better place to look than the unofficial bible of all things beauty — Instagram. We know you’ve probably already hit follow on some of the most popular nail artists, beautiful French beauty bloggers and dopest makeup artists, but if you’re looking for the ultimate natural hair inspo, we’ve got you covered. Whether you recently joined the naturalista side or have always rocked your natural strands, read on for seven accounts that are sure to give you everything you’re looking for.

Cipriana Quann – @ciprianaquann
We consider Cipriana the epitome of fabulous. She was blessed with a gorgeous head of hair and isn’t afraid to show it, along with her très chic outfit ensembles. Scroll through her feed to catch her equally adorable sister Tk Wonder killing the natural hair game, too.

Jasmine – @amazingnaturalhair
With a name like @amaz
ingNaturalHair, this account speaks for itself. It was founded by @MsJass_  and showcases several different women embracing their natural hair in all its glory. From afros and ponytails to braids and protective styles, we guarantee you’ll get  caught in a two-hour scrolling spell, simply based off pure admiration.

Ky – @laetitiaky
There are very few words short of ah-mazing that can accurately describe the masterful creations found on @laetitiaky’s IG account. The artist uses her talented skills to create full-on sculptures out of her natural, long hair. Even if you can’t create the looks on your own, we promise you won’t be disappointed after hitting that follow button.

Jay and Trina – @curltureuk
This award-winning empowerment duo is taking Instagram by storm with their natural hair, beauty and lifestyle account. Aside from showing you all their natural hair tips and tricks, you can also catch snippets of their mission to empower black women all over the world.

Alexus Crown – @alexuscrown
Meet Alexus Crown who is loved for her incredible style and statement afro. This influencer counts nearly 70-thousand followers on Instagram and it’s a no-brainer as to why: You can find Crown serving you all the looks, as well as giving you product recommendations and different styles for the ultimate natural hair inspiration account. 

Romance Cox – @heycurlie
Ranging from protective styles to natural styles and everything in between, Romance Cox is sure to give you what you’re looking for. While you’re searching for a new hairstyle, be sure to snag some tips on all things beauty, fashion, skin care, manis and more. 

Elle & Neecie – @naturalhairdaily
Self-declared “friendly healthy hair enthusiasts,” Elle and Neecie want you to find inspiration for styling while also educating you on how to keep your natural strands healthy. Check out their feed for different looks and the occasional uplifting meme. 

If you didn’t see a natural hair page on this list, comment it down below. I don’t know about you guys but I can stay on natural hair pages/protective hair pages for hours, I just find them fascinated especially when it comes to my people hair.

Winter Haircare Tips


The winter season is upon us and we all know the cold can be bitter sweet. The winter months can attribute to dryness  can be hard on our hair. Black hair care techniques should change throughout the year, especially during the winter, thanks to the cooler temperatures and drier air.

Winter weather can wreak havoc on black hair if no extra care is taken, since excessive dryness leads to hair breakage and a dry scalp. The key to winterizing your hair care regimen is switching to a routine that causes very little stress on your hair throughout winter while preserving moisture. So how do you do this?

01. Wear A Hat:

Protect your hair from the harsh weather changes, by wearing a hat when outside. Wearing a hat covers your delicate strands from harsh winds which could lead to dryness. No one wants dry stiff hair.  I know many of us hate wearing hats, but what’s worse, not being fashion forward, of suffering from dry hair? I’ll say the last option.

Do not go outside with wet hair. Not only can you get sick, but this bad habit can also cause breakage. Depending on where you live and how cold it gets, your hair could even freeze.

Keep your hair wrapped and protected at night. Try wearing a satin bonnet or a scarf to prevent hair from drying while you sleep.

Wear protective styles (i.e. buns, braids, cornrows, etc). If you’re going to wear your hair in a bun, try to avoid pulling your hair, thus adding stress to your hairline. Wearing protective styles help preserve your hair throughout the winter.

Tame flyaways. Dry air can cause static, making even well-moisturized hair unruly. Carry a few unscented anti-static dryer sheets. Pass one over the top your head to immediately calm flyaways.

Wear a hat or a scarf. Wearing some sort of hat or scarf that’s loose enough to allow scalp circulation will protect your hair against cold winds.

Note that some materials, such as wool, tend to be more harmful to Black hair, but since you really shouldn’t venture out into the cold without head protection, try to wear a hat that has a satin lining – or create your own lining.

02. Deep Condition:

Deep Conditioning is one of the most crucial steps in having healthy hair in general. It doesn’t have to be the winter time, however winter is when hair is the driest especially if you live in a cold climate. If you don’t have enough time to leave your conditioner in sit in your hair for 30 minutes, consider using the one minute hair mask treatment from Garnier that I reviewed earlier this week.  I’d also recommend adding an oil, (I love olive oil) to your conditioner for an extra dose of moisture.

Shampoo your hair once a week. Remember that it’s not necessary to shampoo your hair every day, since washing Black hair too often can strip it of much needed natural oils, especially in during winter months, when the hair and scalp are already drier than usual.

Also, remember to use cooler water when wetting your your hair, and to be extra-gentle with wet locks. Try spraying your hair with a leave-in conditioner, using a wide-tooth comb, and blotting with a soft towel (as opposed to vigorously rubbing it, which can lead to even more breakage).

03. Don’t Be Afraid Of A Trim:

I hate getting my hair trimmed, however, it’s so necessary. Removing dead ends helps promote healthy hair growth. I have to tell myself a million times, it’s better to lose some hair to a trim than all hair to split ends; maybe that statement is a bit extreme, but nothing is worse than having long hair that is damaged from root to tip.

04. Minimize The Heat

The quickest way to cause breakage is by using excessive heat. Minimize the use of heating tools to prevent breakage.

Prepare Your Hair. If you decide to use a heating tool, use a hair product to protect your hair from heat. In addition, you can also use a leave-in conditioner accompanied by a heat protecting hair serum to replenish moisture.

Air Dry. Try letting your hair air dry instead of using a blow dryer.

Limit Combing. If you choose to comb your hair while it’s dry, try finger combing instead of using a comb. This will reduce breakage. If you do use a comb, be sure to use a wide tooth shower comb.

Use A Cooler Setting. When using a blow dryer, try using a cooler temperature setting. Your hair may take longer to dry, but it will minimize heat damage.

05. Add An Oil:

Oils are a the best hair care gift the earth could give us. I know I mentioned this above, however if you have dry ends (especially for the curly girls) you can coat the ends in a bit of oil to moisturize the hair without rinsing it out. What most don’t realize is, the ends are the oldest part of the hair and need more attention than the hair towards the scalp. Three great oils that are great for moisturizing the hair (from experience) are:

  1. Argan Oil
  2. Coconut Oil
  3. Olive Oil

To combat winter dryness, this is a crucial step. Moisturizing is extremely important during winter. Also, deep conditioners and hot oil treatments help restore and replenish moisture to your hair.

Use a moisturizer daily or leave-in conditioner. A leave in conditioner can do great things for dry and brittle hair.

Try to use leave-in conditioners with natural ingredients. Some ingredients such as sodium laurel sulfate, mineral oil, and petrolatum cause more dryness, so avoid using products with these ingredients.

Pamper your hair naturally at least once a week. Natural, intensive moisturizers like aloe, shea butter, jojoba or avocado oils can hydrate and revitalize the driest hair.

Deep condition. If your hair becomes persistently dry during the winter, use a deep conditioner or a hot oil treatment.

These products tend to be ultra moisturizing and great for black hair (you can even use a homemade deep conditioner with mayo or avocado). Hot oil treatments are great for replenishing moisture, as well. You can use a variety of different oils for great results, but the best oil to use is jojoba oil, because it is considered to be most like the natural hair oil, called sebum, which is produced from the sebaceous glands in the scalp. Ask your stylist for suggestions regarding the particular products you should use.

06. Eat Right & Consider Vitamins:

The strength of your hair is not only determined by what you put directly on it, but what you put into your body. Simply drink more water and add more fruits and vegetables and you are bound to see improvements in the overall appearance of your hair. If you want to amp it up a bit, consider biotin. Biotin, often known as the “beauty vitamin” can help grow strong hair, promote nail growth and help heal problematic skin.

Retain Moisture. The most important key to combating dryness during the winter is to protect your hair by retaining moisture. Add water to your diet and regimen by drinking at least 8 glasses of water and day and enjoying water-rich fruits and vegetables, such as tomatoes, cucumbers, strawberries and peaches.

Following these simple winter black hair care steps during winter will help prevent some of the winter damage and breakage.

What winter hair care tips do you have?

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